Congratulations on your new member of the family.

VACCINATIONS

Vaccinations are one of the most important preventative health care measures that you as a responsible pet owner can provide your new rabbit.

Like with humans, rabbits must also have vaccinations in order to build their immune system to protect them against common but fatal dieses. These vaccines are vital and required once a year for the best prevention.

Before any vaccination is administered, your rabbit will be given a thorough health check by one of our Veterinary Professionals to ensure they are in full health. This allows you to ask any questions or queries you may have.

Vaccination can be administered from 5 weeks of age.  This vaccinations cover rabbits for myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD) caused by classical RHD virus (RHDV-1) and RHD type 2 virus (RHDV-2).

SOCIALISING

Rabbits are highly social creatures – this means that they need company, and that company should be from other rabbits.

No matter how hard we try, we can’t give our pet rabbits as much company as another rabbit can. We lead busy lives and even if we make sure we spend 3 or 4 hours a day with our rabbits, that means that they spend 20 hours or more without us.

But if they have at least one bonded partner they will never be lonely.

Studies* have shown that rabbits value the company of other rabbits as much as they value food (*Seaman SC, Waran NK, Mason G, D’Eath RB (2008) Animal economics: assessing the motivation of female laboratory rabbits to reach a platform, social contact and food. Anim Behav 75:31–42)

ID CHIPPING

Available for your rabbit as it is for any other pet. Microchips are the size of a small grain of rice and implanted beneath the skin between the shoulder blades. 

Once your rabbit has been microchipped we will register this microchip with the online database PetLog. We will complete the initial set up to include yours and your rabbits details however, it is your responsibility to keep these details updated.

Microchips are permanent and assist in identifying and reuniting your pet with you should they get lost.

WORMING

Unlike cats and dogs, rabbits generally don't require regular worming treatments as an infestation of worms is less common. If you think your rabbit may have worms, common symptoms would be: Scratching/biting and irritated skin at their rear end. Poor coat condition. Weight loss. Small white worms (5-10mm long) on the anus or in the faeces, then please contact us.

FLEA CONTROL

We do not recommend routine treatment against fleas as it is quite uncommon. In households with cats and dogs, keeping their flea protection up to date should provide protection for your rabbits too. If you do see signs of fleas in your rabbit, please contact us.

DIET

Just like their wild cousins, domestic rabbits’ diets should be made up of around 85% grass or hay. Grass or hay is vital for two very important reasons. The first is so that they have healthy guts, and the second is their teeth. Rabbits’ teeth grow continually. They have evolved, so the specific action of chewing the long strand fibre of grass or hay wears the teeth down evenly. It is only this chewing action that keeps their teeth properly worn in the way nature intended.

If your rabbit is not eating enough hay, its constantly growing teeth will not be naturally worn down. The edges will continue to grow and cause painful spurs that cut into the mouth’s gums, tongue and sides.

Along with unlimited grass or hay, greens, vegetables and herbs play a vital part in a rabbit’s diet. Multitudes of plants are safe for rabbits to eat. Broccoli, spring greens and parsley are as tasty to a rabbit as are dandelions from the garden. If you have an apple or hazel tree, they will love the leaves and the same goes for a raspberry bush.

Aim to vary what you give them, and keep to small portions of any one plant. Check thIS list of recommended vegetables and herbs.

Fruits are counted as treats as they are generally high in sugars. Your rabbits may well enjoy a grape or a slice of apple, but it should be an occasional treat no more than once or twice a week. The same goes for the orange part of carrots.

Reliably identify wild plants - You don’t want to poison your rabbits so look out for poisonous plants, you can find a list on the https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk/poisonous-plants/ website.
 

Wash all fresh foods thoroughly - Keep your rabbits’ VHD and myxomatosis vaccinations up to date in case of transmission of disease from infected wild rabbits. If collecting wild plants, avoid areas frequented by dogs, at the side of roads or sprayed with pesticides.
 

Never feed lawn clippings - They ferment very quickly and can be extremely harmful to rabbits.
 

Keep an eye on your rabbits’ dropping - If their droppings are small, dry and dark or runny you will need to try increasing the hay or grass and decreasing the greens and veggies – and eliminating certain foods at times. Too much commercial rabbit food (more than 2 egg-cups) can also upset their digestive system.
 

NEUTERING

We recommend neutering for both sexes. Neutering prevents disease of their reproductive organs, usually improves temperament and allows groups of rabbits to be kept together in harmony.

FLY STRIKE

Rabbits are particularly susceptible to Flystrike if they are unable to keep themselves clean of urine and faeces. It happens when flies lay their eggs on your rabbit, and those eggs hatch out into maggots. This is an emergency. Do not delay. You need to get your rabbit to a vet immediately. Check your rabbit’s bottom every day, more than once a day in the summer. If there is any urine or faeces, clean and dry the area.

COLD WEATHER

In cold weather protect your pet against the elements. Possibly move the hutch into a building or at least against a house wall. Supply extra bedding and possibly more food as more energy may be required to keep warm.